DMX Stage Lighting Systems
18 July - Stage Lighting Control - by: Rob Sayer
If you have any experience of stage lighting you have probably used the DMX512 protocol to control your lighting rig. Apart from being able to control your dimmers, DMX lighting control is at the heart of intelligent lighting, moving lights and accessories. This article explains the basics of a full DMX stage lighting system while busting some of the myths surrounding DMX lighting control.
An Overview of DMX.
Image by VeldaZ
Digital Multiplex (DMX) was developed as a standard digital theatre lighting control which replaced the older analogue systems that were used to control the dimmers in a stage lighting rig. Despite the advance in use of ethernet networking at the top of the professional lighting industry, DMX is still the best answer for most lighting control applications. DMX had the advantage in that a total of 512 (hence the name DMX512) dimmer channels could be controlled using only a 2-core and Ground signal cable. The other plus point to DMX was (and still is) the fact that a signal cable could be daisy chained from one DMX unit to the next and the next until all the lighting equipment was connected by one single chain of signal cables. This is particularly important when controlling moving lights as it minimises the cable required.
How does DMX work?
This article was originally called “DMX Stage Lighting Systems – Get Them To Talk” but, apart from being a bit of a lame title, this actually misses the point of the serial DMX signal. Unlike modern networks, DMX lighting fixtures and their controller do not all “talk” to each other. (If you would like a DMX system that does, take a look at our RDM DMX article)
When a DMX Lighting Control talks – everyone else listens!
Information about each “DMX Channel” (in the old days, a dimmer number) and it’s level (0 – 100%) is transmitted down the DMX “Universe” cable and each DMX stage lighting fixture, moving light or smoke machine listens for it’s own part of the signal stream and ignores everything else. The signal is then transmitted over and over in “packets”, giving a regularly updated stream for the rig to obey. The lighting console recieves no information in this one-way street.
In order for all the DMX stage lighting fixtures to have their own part of the signal stream, each one has it’s own “address” which is set on the fixture using buttons or switches. If a dimmer channel has a DMX address of 001 then it listens for the 001 part of the DMX signal then obeys the “channel level” value, 75% for instance.
Once all intelligent lighting fixtures, dimmers and accessories are connected up and “addressed” the lighting desk can control each part of the rig indiviually using their own unique DMX address.
Masters of the Universe
Back when we only controlled dimmers using DMX, life was simple. 1 DMX Channel = 1 Dimmer No. Then we started to use more complicated fixtures, moving lights and intelligent (?) lighting that needed more than 1 DMX channel per fixture. This means that fixtures are assigned a DMX “start address” which is the first channel in a sequential batch that the fixture listens to. If your fixture uses 6 DMX channels and you set it to a “start address” of 001 then it listens to channels 001,002,003,004,005 and 006. Your next free address for another fixture is then 007 because if you set it to 006 then the “channel overlap” would create a conflict of control. Setting fixtures to the same start address can be useful some circumstances and is a common method of DMX fault finding.
With many DMX moving lights requiring the use of 20 or more channels, those 512 don’t look too many now, huh? A few moving lights, 100+ Dimmers, Strobes and a couple of smoke machines and you’ve run out of channels already! The solution to this problem is to connect and address some of your equipment on a second DMX “universe”, a different signal stream with even more cables. Many lighting control desks have more than one DMX output these days and the principles of fixture addresses and channel numbers apply to this, and subsequent, universes. The first DMX channel on a second universe is also 001 and each DMX universe is a totally separate stream, independent of each other.
Myths busted about DMX stage lighting systems
- It does NOT matter which order you connect up all the fixtures in a DMX chain, so long as they all have a signal going to them.
- The DMX cable chain should NOT return to a create circular control signal loop. (If your lighting desk has a DMX IN connector, leave it alone!)
- A DMX signal cannot be split into two using a Y-cord. A DMX splitter/buffer (somestimes called an Optisplit) is required.
- If does not matter which order your fixtures are addressed in just as long as they are unique and don’t overlap. Make sure you find out how many DMX channels each of your fixture uses for control.
- A DMX chain will usually work without a termination resistor although it is recommended by the equipment manufacturers and can solve some tricky problems with a complex rig. Here is a good article on why you should terminate your DMX lines.
- The “DMX received” indicator on a piece of equipment does not neccessarily mean that all is well with your DMX signal.
- You can set two pieces of DMX equipment to the same start address on the same universe without problems. They will both do exactly the same thing , however.
Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of how DMX stage lighting systems work. A good book on the use of DMX systems is Practical DMX
If this has helped you, consider buying me a beer and CLICK HERE to donate a few bucks to On Stage Lighting (why should I donate?). Thanks, - Rob
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Rob is a freelance LD and Programmer working the the UK events industry. He is also the Editor of On Stage Lighting
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August 22nd, 2007 at 9:20 pm
I’m working on a synchronized music and light show and have the 06 PC DMX lighting control system. Last year i used it with 100,000 christmas lights and now i want to add 60,000 led lights. Will i need additional dimmers? I already have 15 4 channel dimmers and 40 single channel dimmers.
thank you!
August 23rd, 2007 at 8:13 am
Welcome,
Wow, that’s a lot of tiny lights.
Dimming genuine LED lights can only be achieved using specialist technology and they cannot be plugged into your usual dimmers.
If your synchonised show requires live control of then you might be better to use traditional incandescent christmas lights.
If you are technically confident enough, you could buy/make/modify a DMX controlled switching system that just switched the power to your LED circuits, rather than dimming them.
It is sometimes possible to change the settings on more advanced stage lighting dimmers to achieve this but it requires a knowledge of dimmer technology to make sure your don’t ruin the LED transformer or dimmer.
I assume you wish to use LED lights for colours/brightness?
HTH
November 25th, 2007 at 11:59 pm
hey
im surposed to be hireing equipment for a school production and it was suggest we use DMX cables and LED stage lights so we can mix colors im not very informed on these things so i need your help. DMX cables do they have to go through a dimmer because the dimmer we have at our school is not controlled by DMX cables but with another dimmer with cables that have i think 8 or 9 pins in them not sure hwat they are called. but if so can you suggest one. LED stage lights are they just like regular stage lights but can be controlled by DMX to mix the colour and can you possibly suggest a good company to hire from in the uk that also have moving light
thanks much appreciated
muz
November 26th, 2007 at 8:30 am
Hi Muzzy
Just to clarify – LED stage lighting does not need any dimmers. All the LED fixtures need is power and a DMX signal, they dim themselves. If your dimmers are connected by 8 pin DIN cables, then your system is using analogue control, not DMX. Check to see if your desk does not also have a socket marked DMX too. If not, you could get round this by hiring a simple DMX desk to control the LED fixtures and the cable to connect them.
If you are only controlling simple LED PARS or Battens, you could evn get away with using a simple manual conventional desk. It depends on how much control you need. If you are also looking at moving lights, you will need some kind of moving light controller.
There are loads of good lighting hire companies in the UK that have LED kit as well as moving lights. It depends where you based. Give your local lighting hire company a call and they will be able to help you with which cable/kit/control you need.
HTH
January 21st, 2008 at 5:23 pm
Hiya!
My school has a old lighting system that connects via 8-pin DIN. We are hoping to purchase some DMX lights very soon. But, we need some way of controlling DMX lights (possibly some moving heads as well) & our original lights. Can we buy a DMX mixer and convert the output to
DIN? Can we buy a mini DMX mixer for just our DMX lights?
We have a tight budget – as we are a school.
Please Help!
From Andy
January 24th, 2008 at 8:57 am
Hi Andy,
If you are planning to use DMX fixtures in the future, you can indeed buy a DMX lighting controller and then convert a DMX signal to analogue lighting signal (the 8-pin DIN).
To convert the DMX signal for the new lighting controller for your old lighting system, you will need a Demultiplexer or DEMUX. Some dimmer systems use a positive (+ve) analogue control signal, and some negative (-ve) so make sure that buy a DEMUX that is compatible with your dimmers. eg. if the dimmmers are made by Strand, they will need a 0 to -10v (negative) signal.
Some DMX to Analogue converters can output both type of analogue control signal.
HTH
March 1st, 2008 at 9:41 pm
hi do you have any idea how the person above used dmx to control his xmas light display? computer controling my display is somthing i am wanting to do this christmas but i seem to be struggling to get hold of suitable technology! any ideas are very much apreciated, thankyou
March 9th, 2008 at 7:01 am
Wayne,
Although I don’t know for sure, Griselda mentioned DMX dimmers and I presume that these were used to control the intensity of “normal” decoration light strings (with additional “load lamp” if required).
The problem was that conventional stage lighting dimmers can’t be used to feed LED christmas lights.
March 25th, 2008 at 10:35 pm
Yes you can control led rope lights with standard dimmers but you must use a load lamp If you do not the leds do not go fully off this is due to the very low current of led
The dimmers leak a few mili amps They dim well also
I to am trying to use DMX and a computer to drive christmas lights 30 channels to date
I am finding normal stage lighting software a nightmare to program Christmas lights to music one step at a time then back to start again each time
Some people do not use dmx but a system called lightarama as it is better for this job
I think we need some special DMX software can anyone help
Mike Shrewsbury
March 25th, 2008 at 11:06 pm
Hi It Mike again FIRE RISK
The LED rope Lights MUST BE MAINS DIRECT and not have transformers or chase function boxes in. The wave forms from dimmers WILL cook the transformers and even the dimmers
They must be 230v static sets and all will be fine
Mike
March 26th, 2008 at 6:30 am
Hi Mike
Thanks for pointing that out. As usual with transformed mains, it all really depends on the type of transformers. I have worked with cheap 12v transformers (with MR16 dichroics) that were supposed to dim but they have lasted a few minutes before being fried.
I wouldn’t recommened that anyone attached domestic equipment to stage lighting dimmers unless they really understood what they doing.
Re : Your timed music show – have you looked into the various sync control systems to fire your cues; timecode etc? A common way of sync-ing stage lighting control.
Thanks for visiting.
April 7th, 2008 at 11:07 pm
Has anyone come across dimmers that do not work But work fine with a cross in the DMX data wires ie pins 2/3 This has the effect of inverting the data
Have now made up a short cords Male female plugs with cross in
The item in question is a Soundlab 3pin XLR Barrel scan Nightclub Disco light
Tried this as last resort before item went in skip Have herded of this fix from someone else but I had never come across it
Will play some more and report back
Mike
April 8th, 2008 at 7:29 am
Hi Mike
You have an interesting problem and I don’t really know the Soundlab kit in question. If you find that a hot/cold swap makes your fixtures work completely – great. I suggest that the “fix” does work in the way you think it does.
I am not a DMX boffin, but I can tell you that hot/cold swapping the data lines (pins 2 and 3) does not invert the DMX signal. Being a digital DMX signal, changing the “polarity” (for want of a better word) does not mean that a 255 signal suddenly becomes 0 or vice versa.
Early Martin disco equipment, such as the Robocolor, was built with pins 2 and 3 inverted and most of this kit was made DMX compatible (-ish) by either resoldering the connectors internally or using a hot/cold swap jump lead to feed DMX into the fixture.
Another problem with dimmer or other attribute inversions on intelligent lighting comes down to the way the fixtures interprets the DMX signal. Many intelligent lights see a DMX signal of 255 as “dimmer open” or “full” with 0 being “off”. But this is not always the case.
Occasionally, the set up of the controller and the fixture are different – meaning that when you push up a fader, the fixture fades out. Colour attributes of both RGB and CMY fixtures can also vary in this way, depending the the manufacturer. The solution in this case is either in the fixture set-up, controller patching or personality file used.
Let us know how you get on.
April 8th, 2008 at 11:33 pm
Hi Rob
Mike again
An update on this SoundLAB pin 2and 3 cross thing
It is now become even more interesting
Some months ago i purchased off e bay a pair of identical 4 port standard generic lighting dimmers
On test one worked fine but the other had no DMX sync led on but worked in local test mode OK
I went back on Ebay and the words said Sold as seen
I said to my self Mike you have been had again
Have been hunting the web for a circuit diagram with no success
But guise what. Thease dimmers are made by SoundLab
Can you gues the next bit Yes with the Pin 2/3 crossing cord in the input it works fine
Have opened both dimers up expecting to fine a simple
wiring cross on the input plug to PCB wiring but no it is soldered direct to PCB The units have no link options on th PCB,s
At the moment I am at a lost to explain
ALL Units are as new looking
Crossing the data Pin inverts data bit 1,s to 0,s and 0,s to 1,s
ie Data 1 IS pin 3 {+pin) high +5 v and pin 2 (-pin) at -5v
A data 0 is pin 3 (+pin low -5 v and pin 2 (-pin) at +5v
Each bit is use to make up a 8 bit word to give 256 brightness levels for each in channel in turn
As a final prof I put the reversing cord on the input to 4 other working dimmer of differing makes and sync is lost as you would expect
This problem cannot be unique to me NEED REPORTS FROM OTHERS PLEASE
I will try to get to bottom of problem and report further
Mike
April 9th, 2008 at 7:15 pm
Hi Rob again
Have been looking for any ref of problems with DMX
and SoundLAB for days. Have at last found ref to the very same problem. A bit hard to understand but!
In the last line the same FIX but not explained very well This is dated 2006 how many good lighting units and dimmers have gone for scrap since then. See link
http://discolitez.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=7827&sid=59a03dd5274fa959d22c3a6fc3bdab74
Mike
April 9th, 2008 at 10:45 pm
Hi Its Mike yet again
Think I understand it all
DMX 512 standards call for a 5 pin plug to be used Pin 1 earth pin 2 data neg cold .Pin 3 hot pos 4 and 5 are not often, but are for return data from dimmers etc
Some kit now often uses 3 pin plugs for cost and also mic leads can be used BUT SHOLD NOT as IN audio Pin one is also conected to plug outer in dmx it is not and can give probs in big rigups if used
Most 3 pin makers use the same pin out as in 5 pin (1to 3)
BUT some say its 3 pin AND as sutch in the audio world PIN 2 is the hot or pos and pin3 is the cold.
I think SoundLAB is one of these makers. If ALL KIT in rig is SoundLAB all would work fine Mix kit PROBLEMS start
This would mean the 1 unit I have that works with no cross cord is the odd one out now! It may be modified in some way to make it standard.I will investigate this new idea ASAP
See this new link It the same but more up to date than the last one and explains all wellhttp://discolitez.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=7827&sid=59a03dd5274fa959d22c3a6fc3bdab74
Think a DMX rigger needs in his tool box a 5pin to 3 straight shot male/female patch cord
and 3 pin to 3 M/F crossed cord two off
. As after a soundlab the cross must be taken out
to get back to normal
Sorry for so much info in one day. Hope it is of interest
Mike
April 9th, 2008 at 10:53 pm
Sorry Link to new site is
http://www.usbdmx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57
Mike
April 10th, 2008 at 8:32 pm
Hi Mike
I did a search and found some references to DMX hot/cold swapping for Soundlab kit (like I said, not really familiar with it myself). Your information will be a great help to anyone else searching for an answer. A quick Google didn’t seem to find anything much like a user manual though.
A few of the disco manufacturers followed this DMX pin configuration, particularly early Martin kit ( particularly the Robocolour as I mentioned). All the lighting companies that I have worked with have, as well as 5-3pin / 3-5 pin jumper cables, some specially marked hot/cold swap jumpers to solve this problem.
But to be honest, we don’t really use that kind of kit anyway. Thanks for your work and for letting us know your findings.
April 16th, 2008 at 7:13 am
Hi Rob
Just to sum up. Even SoundLAB equipment can be found wired to both standards
The only saving grace is that if You look at the XLR plug diagram by the plug,it shows the pin out polarity.However even this is not foolproof. Have a dimmer not as diagram
Mike
April 24th, 2008 at 6:59 pm
Hi
Just purchased a soundlab package.8 Par 56 cans on 2 T bars with 2 x IEC blocks for the lights into bulgin coonector to the controller. Fine so far but I have no contol over it as it either chases at different speeds of sound activates. This is OK but I need to isolate some of the lights for dimmer purposes. What do I need to do this?
Thanks
May 20th, 2008 at 12:17 am
Hi Mark
Sound to me like you need to take external or manual control in some way
What sort of controller is it please Is it a dimmer unit with programed chase function and sound to light.
The main Question is Has it got a DMX input
If it has got DMX in then you could use a laptop computer
with DMX software and a DMX interface to convert USB to
DMX protocol
I use a unit made by a firm called Afterglow This firm also provide the software. Popsoft DMX control 2.9
With this software you can do any think you like If you can get your head round the software fully
ie
Manual fade of any channel via on screen faders and mouse
Automatic lighting changes set in time and/or with sound or manual triggering
Sound to light disco style With manual override of any channel (Sounds like this is what you may need)
Lighting displays set to music. Programed by hand
Lighting displays are what I am currently working on. Now having more success with the software a bit hard to understand at first
Maplin also do a unit as a kit with software
Or you could use a small DMX Dimmer control console as a better option maybe. Not sure of sound to light function on low cost console units
This is more in Robs line I think
Over to you Rob
Mike
May 20th, 2008 at 7:23 am
Mark/Mike
Mike has pretty much hit the nail on the head. If the controller only does sound to light chases, then you need to split out a few of the PARs to another supply.
The simplest way to do this would be a 13A to IEC cable, plugging a PAR into a wall socket. No dimmer control but…
You can get small dimmer units or a single channel “followspot” dimmer for a bit more control. It sounds unlikely that you would need much in the way of a DMX console controller – 8 PARs is good for lighting a band or a dancefloor but you don’t usually need complex control.
Sorry, missed this comment. Thanks Mike, I am always pleased to see OSL readers helping each other.
July 7th, 2008 at 4:23 am
I am new to DMX. I have a small musical group I am considering using the Led Lights controlled by DMX(dmx-512). I am planning on using at least 8 led light units, each unit has 4 channels. Channel 1 (Blackout/Strobe/Dimmer. Channel 2 Red. Channel 3 Green. Channel 4 Blue. My question is on the controller how many channels do I need to controll this system to have an effective system for chase programs on these units
July 7th, 2008 at 7:54 am
Hi Al,
It depends on how fancy you need your chases, but even just 8 DMX channels will give you some flexibilty. Half your LEDs set to DMX 001 and half to DMX 005 will mean you can flip-flop chase between two sets of LEDs.
Don’t forget that LED chases can flip between colours, not just turn on and off. Take a look at DMX Control for LED Lighting
July 7th, 2008 at 4:19 pm
So 16 channel controller should be adaquate then?
October 7th, 2008 at 9:51 pm
I have a strand DMX stage lighting system in my school. There are four dimmers (if thats what they are called) with six channels on each. So thats 24 lighting sockets on the stage ceiling. We have a strand 100 controller. I need to get that to work with the lights on the ceiling. There are all sorts of options on the dimmers, like ‘curve’, ‘DMX Address’, ‘Minimum Level’. Would you be able to explain how to do this, very basicly please?
October 11th, 2008 at 6:57 pm
Tally
Assuming your lighting sockets in the ceiling are correctly connected to the dimmers, you just need to make sure that the DMX addresses are set to 001, 007, 013, 019 and that the 100 is connected using the control cable. And there is power to the system.
The other options on your dimmers control do what they say they : “curve” – dimming type, usually set to linear or similar. Mininmum level – a setting for the lowest possible dimmer output to preheat the filaments of the lamps.
October 12th, 2008 at 9:44 pm
How should I connect it all up together, And in what order? I have all ready tried everything you said but it still won’t work with the controller.
October 14th, 2008 at 8:50 am
Tally,
If your system is a complete installation (which sounds likely) are you sure that you actually need to connect up the control cables? Some installed systems are hardwired with control cables that are already connected but not obvious. If not Desk DMX Out -> Dimmer 1 -> Dimmer 2 -> Dimmer 3 Dimmer 4 -> using the correct cables, usually 5 pin XLR. It doesn’t really matter which order you connect them up.
You haven’t really given us much info on the other variables of your system that “doesn’t work”.
Is there power to the dimmers?
Can you connect a lantern directly to a dimmer?
Are you socket outlets attached to the dimmer via patch cords?
Have you tried getting the dimmer to output using “local” control? (many dimmers have a facility to fade channels up without a desk) and did it work.
Have you definitely got power to the desk?
Have you read the Strand 100 User Manual??
It might seem like a lot of obvious questions
but there are loads of reasons why you can’t get your lights on when you push up a fader, most of them unrelated to DMX.
October 25th, 2008 at 7:23 pm
Hi! I am trying to learn the basics of DMX Lighting in time for a conferece we are holding at church. I already understand the basics and that’s largely due to a little bit of hands on experience and a LOT of reading from this very useful site!!
I am trying to makesure I have the basic building blocks clearly understood in my head and there is one little point I am struggling to understand. Please help if you can:
I understand that it doesn’t matter which order you connect your DMX fixtures into the serial sequence. I als understand that they all receive the same signal and just “listen” for their own part of it. I also understand that there is no information flowing into the lighting control desk – it is all flowing out. So, when you set up your fixtures and plug the DMX cable into your desk, how do you tell each fixture which channel to “listen” for? I am trying to understand this on a very practical level. Is there a button on the side of each fixture? Is there a sequence when you are setting the desk up so that you plug them in as you assign them? Please help me to understand!!
Thanks
Matt
October 25th, 2008 at 7:53 pm
Hi Matt,
You are right to assume that the “addressing” of each DMX512 fixture is done at each unit – either using Dip Switches or a menu display and navigation buttons. The “address” is set to the 1st DMX channel in the batch used by the fixture – the “start address”.
There is no crucial order to set this up, unlike a network that relies on IP addresses and discovery. The DMX fixtures often need power to set them and some DIP switch address setting might need a “reboot” – cycle of fixture power. But it doesn’t matter if the desk is powered of if their is a DMS signal going to the rig.
It is also not necessary to have the fixtures on or connected when patching up the controller.
When you think you have a greater understanding of “standard” DMX512, you might look into an extension to this called RDM (Remote Device Management). It’s not “out there” in the industry much at the moment, but it might be of passing interest to you.
Thanks for your question.
October 25th, 2008 at 10:17 pm
Thanks very much. This website has been amazingly useful so far!
Matt
December 23rd, 2008 at 4:16 am
I am starting a new drama team and will be using (8) 56 par cans, (8) 38 par cans and a follow spot. I need to know what would be a good dmx controller to use. I have never worked with dmx controllers before and will need to learn how to use it fairly quickly. I will need to be able to control most of the fixtures seperatly. It will need to be cheap as well, like around 200 or 300 dollars. Any suggestions?
December 23rd, 2008 at 9:47 pm
Doug – If you are just using dimmers and a handful of “normal” PAR cans, any cheap two-scene (two banks of faders) “manual” lighting desk should be fine. A fader per channel, these DMX controls usually come in multiples of 6 – 12 channel, 18 channel, 24 etc.
February 3rd, 2009 at 4:24 pm
Rob – i’m well aware of the fact that dmx cannot be split using a y adapter, but i have a specific need for a y in my lighting setup. currently i have one controller that may need to be placed in one of two locations, and was wondering if it were possible to have two signal input lines (one of which would be dead at any given time) connecting to the first input on my chain.
it’s a rather specific need to allow changing the location of my controller depending on the lighting needs on a given night without constructing three tiers of scaffolding to manually change out plugs.
any input would be great.
February 3rd, 2009 at 4:49 pm
Hi Greg. Your situation is common in permanent DMX installations – One desk, two or more possible locations. It is bad practice to leave a spare leg of DMX, even if unused. This is because it leaves an unterminated conductor that could cause signal reflections and general unpleasantness.
The usual solution is : Control Position 1 (furthest away ) -> Control Pos 2 -> Stage/Dimmers/Equipment. Control Pos 2 has a box with a DMX input socket(to stage) and a flying lead (from Control Pos 1). When the flying lead is unplugged from the input on the box, it allows the desk to “break into” the line at CP2. When you are at CP1, the flying lead is plugged in again.
February 3rd, 2009 at 6:13 pm
thanks
February 15th, 2009 at 7:21 pm
Hi greg
It’s not rocket science. All you need to do is have two cables running from your dimmer packs to each of your control positions. One to the main position and another to the other position, preferably underground.Then connect the dimmers to the main position cable when it is at the main position. When you move to the second position just connect the dimmers to your second position.
If this is too complicated or difficult you can do this:
Assuming you have a 3pin(or 5pin)female XLR output on your console.That means that you plug in a similar 3pin or 5pin male connector to your console. Right
So add an extension Xlr either 3 or 5pin male to an equivalent female connector to the dmx male at the main position and run it neatly all the way to the second position whenever you need to.
HOWEVER, based on experience take my advice when i say dont do either. It’s better to keep a console wherever it has been fitted. If somebody who doesnt know what he is doing but has only seen you doing it tries to move it and fool around.
GOD help the desk. I can list a number of unnecessary disasters. Basically whoever designed the installation probably has his reasons for placing the desk their.However if you have to do this then make sure everyone who is anyone knows exactly what to do.
Better still if you have the budget use wireless dmx. No cables at all. Mail me if you need further info on this.
Thanks hope all this helps
Sharukh
February 15th, 2009 at 7:42 pm
Wireless DMX? I’ve never heard of that before. How does that work? Where can I find out more?
Matt
February 15th, 2009 at 8:58 pm
Well how about right here on ON STAGE LIGHTING. I personally use and trust because i have done large shows using W-DMX a brand from Sweden’s Wireless solutions. They are the pioneers in WIRELESS DMX. You will need one receiver and one transmitter. You plug in the wireless dmx receiver into your dimmer packs and the wirelss dmx transmitter into your console. Power is required for both pieces of equipment and a power cord is supplied. I use the black box S-1 512ch single universe model, but the S-2 can be used for 1024channels and two universes.You can select whichever you want from the site.
I vouch for these guys because ive used them for atleast 200m+ and i think they can be used for much much more.They are reasonably priced too.Besides these guys are pioneers, so who better.
I hope this helps ciao
http://www.wirelessdmx.com
February 15th, 2009 at 9:09 pm
Hi again Matt,
I just reread your entire chat on this page. Why dont you just visit this site.www.lsclighting.com
They are a world class lighting console and control manufacturing company, based in Australia.They have a low end console called the MINIM that is dirt cheap and perfect for even bigger shows than what you are doing. I have used it for over 4 years now and not a single problem has occured.Check it out. They have distributors around the world and they deal W-DMX as well so u can just visit your local guy and get it all.
Also for more on DMX visit this page by typing it in google
UJJALS DMX PAGE
If you wanna know anything before just email me at
sharukh_239 at hotmail.com
with ATTN:SHARUKH LIGHTING QUERY? MATT HERE in the subject line.
Thanks
I learnt Dmx by reading this site. Beleive me you will become a DMX guru once u read this site up. It explains everything.
February 16th, 2009 at 8:09 am
@ Matt. Here’s an article about Wireless DMX and the Zero88 Zero Wire.
March 3rd, 2009 at 11:03 am
Hi,, this site is really great..
I want to learn how to address scanners and moving heads?
how do I know wich address(how many numbers to change) that I should give by when I see one of them?
April 12th, 2009 at 1:04 pm
Ya Sharukh is right. Even I use Maxim M for the past few years and no prob with it. You can handle quite few big shows too with that console easily.
April 12th, 2009 at 1:18 pm
Hi Rob! Need an suggestion. I got an offer from my friend. He’s offering me brand new Coef 1200 DVP Scanners for jus $750. Another leading lighting company reselling Robe 1200 XT Scans (3 years old) for $1500. One more offer for brand new Acme iScan 1200W for the same price, $1500. I’m in deeper confusion to decide which one to buy. Pls tell me which will be worthfull.
Coef does’nt hv glass gobos and remote focus. Intensity too not up to the mark. I’m not sure whether Acme scans are 100% branded but its good. Robe is the best out of the 3, but its 3 yrs old.
April 12th, 2009 at 6:50 pm
Hi Saravan. I don’t know the Coef or the Acme so can’t really comment. Sorry.
April 14th, 2009 at 10:06 am
Hi Saravanan,
I dont know Coef but it comes in the second category of lighting manufacturers(above china below Martin).I dont know how good they are. Robe is definitely your best bet check them properly before you pay for them. Open them up and get a service tech to check them good and proper. Also Bargain a little and doube check with your robe dealer of the cost of new scans of the same model and then bargain accordingly.
Acme is a Chinese Brand, it is one of the most popular ones and also a very good brand. Its been around for a while and quite good. However again check the price.
http://www.acme.com or http://www.yifenglighting.com
Acme is a good brand if you arent averse to chinese equipment. However make sure you figure out the exact reason why these are being sold in the first place. You mentioned the seller is a friend, so maybe that should be enough to trust him, get my drift…
Thanks
Sharukh
April 19th, 2009 at 6:25 am
Hi Sharukh. Thanks for that comment. The guy who sells acme is not a authorised dealer. So is it possible to get it from any authorised dealer from India.
April 19th, 2009 at 3:26 pm
I have no idea about how to get acme scans.Id suggest you do your research before you trust anybody.Thanks Sharukh
April 21st, 2009 at 11:27 pm
hello there
I want purchase a pair of Kam LED800s Colour Bar BUT my question is if I want to connect this via DMX converter or DMX USB dongle to my computer using http://www.daslight.com/index.php dash light program with their converter.
1.will I need one DMX controller ?
2.will I need some kind of adapoter to connect more than one DMX port to the USB dongle
April 23rd, 2009 at 4:19 pm
Hi SIA – According to the spec, the LED800s will accept control signal from a DMX controller and are “linkable”. I assume this means that you can daisy chain the DMX signal between fixtures in the usual way – from the 1 output on the Daslight.
June 13th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
Hey,
hoping you might be able to give me some advice on a lighting problem at my school. its along story but we were told we could use a splitter cable to create two different DMX universes, would this work? and how would we go about doing this? we already have the splitter cables (these are 5 pins cables )
June 19th, 2009 at 3:50 pm
@Andrew
The quick answer: 1) You cannot use Y-split splitter cables to divide a DMX signal – it causes problems. 2) Splitting a DMX universe (using a proper splitter) does not create 2 different DMX universes – it creates two instances of the same universe.
What could cause confusion is that older Avolites consoles only had 2 x hardware DMX 5 pin outputs but were modified to output 4 x DMX universes from 2 sockets (using the redundant pins 4 & 5) . A special Y split cable is used to break the socket to 2 5 pin XLR sockets, one for each universe.
August 4th, 2009 at 4:12 pm
Hi Rob, I have a slightly different issue where I’m trying to control a set of DMX RGB LED Downlights with more than one controller. In my example I have a single room wanting a wall dimmer at each end of the room – 1 switch when I enter the room and another at the other end of the room near to my desk. If I wish to change the colour or dim the LED’s then I would like to option of doing so from both locations, but controlling the same lights – in this example 10 x MR16 size RGB LED’s.
Problem is, my integrator that allows me to connect up to 6 controllers (standard UK wall switch size) can only allow controller 1 to control DMX address 1-4 and controller 2 DMX address 5-9 and so on.
So, what I’m looking to do is have controller 1 and 2 and evern 3 or 4 if I wish to add more, control DMX Lights/channels 1-4 only.
Is there some device/splitter that will allow more than 1 input, (let’s say 2 or 4 or 6 inputs from my LED wall dimmers) into only 1 standard DMX output?
This seems the opposite to most request for splitting the output when I need to split the input. Many thanks in advance.
All the Best
Phill
August 10th, 2009 at 11:28 am
Hi Phil – the trick you are trying to acheive is a “DMX Merge” which is a less common beast and is usually an expensive solution to the problem. The trouble with merging is deciding how to read multiple DMX signals and intepret them on an HTP or LTP basis.
Most installations of the kind you describe that I have seen actually organise themselves at controller level (using multiple instances of a panel that controls the other panels in unison) and the DMX processing is then applied AFTER at one location. I can’t off hand remember any particular brands but I expect your supplier can advise you on that.
August 11th, 2009 at 8:21 am
Hi Phill,
Don’t know if you have any budget for what you are trying to achieve but I was down at Zero88 a few weeks back and they were showing me through a system that I think does exactly what you are trying to achieve. It’s designed for architectural lighting and allows control from a wall switch when there is no input from a desk but when the desk is live it over-rides the wall switch. Give Zero88 a call and see if they can help you out. Sadly I can’t remember what it is called!
Matt
August 11th, 2009 at 9:38 am
** Hi Rob, many thanks for your response. The multi-panel control isn’t really an option as the install is residential, so I’m limited to aesthetically pleasing wall controllers. Great idea though, thanks.
** Hi Matt, thanks for the head up Re; the Zero88 controller, I’ll make contact with them to get more details, thanks.
I personally think that DMX is not the ideal protocol for residential lighting, because it lacks 2-way communication and the control options are limited. It’s something I’m spending some time on as I want to try and find the ideal protocol for RGB LED control. Ideally both local and remote control via a touch screen device. Thank you all for your input.
All the Best
Phill
August 11th, 2009 at 11:21 am
Hi Phill, I think that you are probably right that DMX is not the best option for that kind of situation for the reasons you mentioned.
However, LED fixture manufacturers in our business are all vying to get their fixtures into this market and there are compatible “pleasing” offerings from the usual suspects including Anytronics, Color Kinetics and Anolis. I would also look at Artistic Licence too.
Whether these controllers will do much in the way of multiple slaving, I don’t know. As you say DMX-A / RS 485 doesn’t allow for 2 way communication.
October 18th, 2009 at 12:27 am
Hey, I’m a complete newbie to lighting control so any help would be appreciated. I’m looking into buying an American DJ Mega Flash strobe light for a few parties I plan to host in the future. Being a larger light, it’s DMX, of course, though it works both with and without a DMX controller.
I think I’d be fine using it without a DMX controller, but I’d still like to check it out. I have a couple questions concerning DMX in general. What’s the average going rate for a DMX controller? And what’s the cheapest, yet most reliable controller? Also, is a physical DMX controller the only way to control lights? Or would just lighting software (i.e. Freestyler) work?
I apologize if any of these questions are easily answerable through Google, or have already been answered here. I don’t know the first thing about lighting control.
Thanks a lot for your help!
John
October 19th, 2009 at 8:18 am
Hi John,
The world of DMX control is a very broad area. It’s a bit like asking what people what car to buy! DMX control is usually done through some form of lighting desk and these can range in complexity from a couple of channels of DMX through to hundreds of channels with lots of extra features. It all depends what you want to do now and what you want to expand into in the future. Do you know how many channels of DMX your fixture uses? That will be listed in the product specifications.
Software based DMX control is an expanding corner of the market but I know a lot of people (including myself) don’t really like the idea. You need a reliable computer and of course you need a USB-DMX dongle which costs around £80 (although you can get them cheaper as a kit).
I’d begin by asking yourself what exactly your fixture needs to do, how much control you need over it and also if you are going to buy any other equipment in the future.
Hope that helps
Matt
October 22nd, 2009 at 10:57 am
Hi
I am looking to put together a small rig for my band and am looking at using LED par cans. I have looked around and I just wanted to double check that when using such fixtures you dont need to use dimmer packs?
Also I have 2 NJD Spectres and I was wondering what I would need to use them in the same system.
Any help much appreciated.
Tony
October 22nd, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Hi Tony,
I can’t help on the NJD Spectres, but as far as the LEDs go: you definitely do NOT need dimmers for LEDs. Just run a DMX cable out of the back of your lighting desk, into the first LED and then another DMX from that LED Fixture to the next and keep going from there. Then they all just need normal 13A power. Just one thing that’s worth remembering – most DMX from desks are 5 pin but a lot of the input and outputs on LED fixtures are 3 pin DMX. Worth having a couple of converters on hand for the first input and some 3 pin cables on hand between LED Fixtures (XLRs will do for that). If you do need converters then go with tails, not barrels! Don’t forget LEDs almost always have a stand-alone mode too.
Hope that helps,
Matt
October 24th, 2009 at 7:37 pm
Hi Tony, Matt has pretty much covered it (thanks once again, Matt). According to the user manual, the NJD Spectres can accept DMX control and use a 5 pin XLR input and output or, like most of this level of DJ kit, can be set to stand-alone mode.
November 4th, 2009 at 7:38 pm
hi do you guys know of any short weekend courses for theatre lighting in london
which are not to expense
January 15th, 2010 at 2:48 am
Hey,
I’m having problems with my moving heads… to begin with… how do you set the start address per fixture?
Thanks,
Tobias
January 15th, 2010 at 10:51 pm
Can you tell us some more information – what moving heads are you using? There’s normally a menu system built into each one and you can set it through them – worth knowing how many DMX addresses it uses in different modes – then you can make sure you space your start addresses far enough apart to stop them overlapping. What lighting desk are you using to control them? Some will have the fixture profiles preloaded for lots of common fixtures – some you will have to load and some you may even have to program in yourself.
Hope some of that helps
Matt
February 2nd, 2010 at 10:40 am
hi! how many channles does mac 250 use
February 3rd, 2010 at 10:05 pm
He Zama
Depends what mode it’s in and depends which MAC250 you have. Do you have 250, 250+, 250 Krypton, 250 Wash or 250 Entour? It’s well worth checking out the manual to find out which mode you want your fixtures in – depends whether you want extra fine control or you want to conserve channels. If you have a good lighting desk you can normally load up your fixture profiles from the library and just click next available address – then you don’t even need to knwo how many channels it uses because the desk works it out for you – you still need to know which type and which mode you are in though.
If you’re still stuck just post which type you have and which mode you are in.
Matt
February 25th, 2010 at 6:17 pm
Hello. Hoping someone can help. Strand ACT6 Digital Dimmer. Has 6 lanterns (channels?) and a remote fader control with 6 faders and a master fader. Lights come on. Can adjust them at the dimmer rack, up to 50% but want to use the remote fader. There is no light where it says “DMX IN”. I don’t know whether this implies a fault or whether it hasn’t come on because we haven’t set the menu up coreectly. Desperate. Needed tomorrow evening!
February 25th, 2010 at 8:54 pm
Further to my query of earlier today about a Strand ACT6. I have now found the manual online and it looks as if the remote control is probably not DMX but analogue. In which case could you possibly tell me how I need to set it up? Thank you.
April 23rd, 2010 at 4:55 pm
Hi. I run a small amateur drama group, and we’ve just purchased a G018WA SRC-144 DMX controller. None of us has a clue how to use it and the manual isn’t up to much. Is there a ‘Manual for Dummies’ anywhere on the web for this particular model?
April 27th, 2010 at 4:50 pm
Hey,
Im running a show in which I have 3 LED’s and a few Pars. I’ve sent a DMX cable from stage right to stage left where the board is, and I have no problem running the pars (they’re on separate dimmers) but when i try to control the LEDs individually, I can only run all three at the same time. I’m low on DMX cables. Is there a solution that would allow all three to run individually without affecting the other LEDs?
April 29th, 2010 at 12:13 pm
Hi Samuel,
It sounds like you have the LED PARs set to the same DMX start address. It’s not an issue of the number of cables, that doesn’t change. You need to set the start addresses differently and tell your lighting desk which one is which. For example, I use some LED PARs that use six channels (you need to know how many your’s use – it should be in the manual or preloaded on your desk, depending on the desk type). My six channels are Red, Green, Blue, Strobe, Effect and something else that I can’t recall at the moment. So if I had three of these running I might start my dimmers at 001, and it I had ten dimmer channels my first LED PAR would start at 011. Then LED2 would start at 017 and LED3 would start at 023 and finish at 029. To set the DMX start address there will either be a display on your LED PAR units or, more likely, dip switches which use binary.
I hope some of that helps!
Matt
May 6th, 2010 at 11:04 pm
Hey
Thanks for all the info on a Great site!
I am in a Kiss tribute band, and am trying to figure out how to wire 2 identical (and large) KISS signs using rope lights and DMX.
The letters: KISS, need to flash on and off, then flash in sequence (i.e. K, then I, then S, and then the last S.) as well as “chase” where the lights appear to be moving and tracing the letters.
I repair computers, so I am familiar with the concepts of resistance, capacitance, inductance, voltage, and amperage.
I can see the potential of DMX, but cannot seem to rectify how it can be used to control non-dmx intelligent devices, or devices that are not lights- such as strobes and fog machines.
One of my ideas was to give the drummer a couple of midi pads which would trigger a sampled explosion sound simultaneously with a single strobe flash and a burst of smoke to simulate the pyrotechnics that no one will let you use since the Great White disaster in Rhode Island.
I have been to umpteen billion sites, but this seemed to be the best, as you seem to be the most knowledgeable.
Setting up a bunch of DMX intelligent lights and setting them to react to the music is not difficult, but a Kiss tribute poses its own unique set of challenges.
The technical complexity that lighting presents mean that a decent light tech would probably cost more than we make. I have one of those multi-pedal midi foot controllers that behringer makes and it would be great if there was a way to program it so it manipulated a DMX board.
Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
Matt
June 15th, 2010 at 1:07 pm
Hey, I have a Stairville DMX Master controller, and I was wondering what actual use is there for the DMX IN port? Is it so that I could, theoretically, use a secondary controller to override the first for some reason, or?